Lisa's guide: my favourite places in my neighbourhood and beyond
Offerta gastronomica - Gastronomic offer
A sophisticated, yet informal and relaxing space.
Run by young people, smart service, prices appropriate to the quality which is superior; ideal for those who seek and appreciate in food the quality of the raw material; menu with Roman and other dishes; excellent wine tastings (not only Italian) with good sommeliers. Centrally located, but in a very quiet area and not far from the flat. Reachable in 20 minutes on foot.
Via del Conservatorio, 58 • https://www.rimessaroscioli.com/
19 lokalaca preporučuje
Rimessa Roscioli
58 Via del ConservatorioA sophisticated, yet informal and relaxing space.
Run by young people, smart service, prices appropriate to the quality which is superior; ideal for those who seek and appreciate in food the quality of the raw material; menu with Roman and other dishes; excellent wine tastings (not only Italian) with good sommeliers. Centrally located, but in a very quiet area and not far from the flat. Reachable in 20 minutes on foot.
Via del Conservatorio, 58 • https://www.rimessaroscioli.com/
to take home the taste of local food, but also to have a sandwich 'tailor-made' with cold meats or cheese of your choice: Roberto, the manager, is a delightful person. It is possible to buy products on the go: they are vacuum-packed.
Some guided tours of the neighbourhood stop here.
Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 140A/B • https://www.facebook.com/anticacaciaratrasteverina/
58 lokalaca preporučuje
Antica Caciara Trasteverina
140A Via di S. Francesco a Ripato take home the taste of local food, but also to have a sandwich 'tailor-made' with cold meats or cheese of your choice: Roberto, the manager, is a delightful person. It is possible to buy products on the go: they are vacuum-packed.
Some guided tours of the neighbourhood stop here.
Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 140A/B • https://www.facebook.com/anticacaciaratrasteverina/
typical Roman trattoria, with a menu 'lightened' in the preparation of recipes.
Small restaurant, with an exterior made up of a few tables.
Reservations only accepted at weekends. The rest of the week it is advisable to arrive before 7pm and... get in line.
Good cuisine, tourist ambience. Local wine, not sommelier
Via dei Vascellari, 29 • https://www.daenzoal29.com/
167 lokalaca preporučuje
Trattoria Da Enzo al 29
29 Via dei Vascellaritypical Roman trattoria, with a menu 'lightened' in the preparation of recipes.
Small restaurant, with an exterior made up of a few tables.
Reservations only accepted at weekends. The rest of the week it is advisable to arrive before 7pm and... get in line.
Good cuisine, tourist ambience. Local wine, not sommelier
Via dei Vascellari, 29 • https://www.daenzoal29.com/
Il vinaietto is the place of the heart to meet friends but also to make friends with Italian and non-Italian strangers. There are excellent and good wines, expensive and cheap. Marco and the other owners know how to advise: ask them to let you taste a sip before choosing whether to take a whole glass. An old-fashioned wine bar, loved by very contemporary people. Don't expect happyhours! Here at most you can buy chips. Loyal customers use to buy some pizza at the nearby bakery Roscioli (Via dei Chiavari, 34,) and take it to the Vinaietto where they eat it while tasting wine. Cin Cin
Via del Monte della Farina, 38
25 lokalaca preporučuje
Vinaietto - Old Winery
38 Via del Monte della FarinaIl vinaietto is the place of the heart to meet friends but also to make friends with Italian and non-Italian strangers. There are excellent and good wines, expensive and cheap. Marco and the other owners know how to advise: ask them to let you taste a sip before choosing whether to take a whole glass. An old-fashioned wine bar, loved by very contemporary people. Don't expect happyhours! Here at most you can buy chips. Loyal customers use to buy some pizza at the nearby bakery Roscioli (Via dei Chiavari, 34,) and take it to the Vinaietto where they eat it while tasting wine. Cin Cin
Via del Monte della Farina, 38
A great deli, for take-away food or a quick snack standing outside the shop. The supplì (characteristic of Rome) are excellent, especially the cacio e pepe; the pizza al taglio is good.
Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 137 • https://www.suppliroma.it/
91 lokalaca preporučuje
Supplì Roma
137 Via di S. Francesco a RipaA great deli, for take-away food or a quick snack standing outside the shop. The supplì (characteristic of Rome) are excellent, especially the cacio e pepe; the pizza al taglio is good.
Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 137 • https://www.suppliroma.it/
A comfortable place in summer with outside tables and in winter in a casual yet full of detail ambience. Good cocktails, good wines, good food to go with the alcoholic drinks. Very relaxed and pleasant ambience
Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 73 • https://bit.ly/3beMkjx
11 lokalaca preporučuje
Cantina Ripagrande
73 Via di S. Francesco a RipaA comfortable place in summer with outside tables and in winter in a casual yet full of detail ambience. Good cocktails, good wines, good food to go with the alcoholic drinks. Very relaxed and pleasant ambience
Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 73 • https://bit.ly/3beMkjx
It is the oldest Roman ice bar still in business (it opened back in 1913). Its fame has never faded over the years and even today, after more than a century of ice and syrups, the quality is no less. Prices are average: 3 euro for the normal grattachecca, 5 euro for the alcoholic one.
Lungotevere Raffaello Sanzio, junction with Viale Trastevere
WHAT IS GRATTACHECCA? Grattachecca is not granita, it is something else. Its name already explains it: it is ice grated from a slab - the 'checca', in fact - with a special iron machine. The 'grattacheccaro' fills a glass with large strips of ice, much thicker than the 'snow' of the 'granita', and then tops them with every possible type and combination of syrups together with pieces of fresh fruit. Some kiosks have specialised in particular flavours, contributing to the birth of great 'classics' of Roman grattachecca, such as 'lemoncocco', or the combination of orange-marjoram and sour cherry.
CHIOSCO - Alla fonte d'oro - GRATTACHECCA
Lungotevere Raffaello SanzioIt is the oldest Roman ice bar still in business (it opened back in 1913). Its fame has never faded over the years and even today, after more than a century of ice and syrups, the quality is no less. Prices are average: 3 euro for the normal grattachecca, 5 euro for the alcoholic one.
Lungotevere Raffaello Sanzio, junction with Viale Trastevere
WHAT IS GRATTACHECCA? Grattachecca is not granita, it is something else. Its name already explains it: it is ice grated from a slab - the 'checca', in fact - with a special iron machine. The 'grattacheccaro' fills a glass with large strips of ice, much thicker than the 'snow' of the 'granita', and then tops them with every possible type and combination of syrups together with pieces of fresh fruit. Some kiosks have specialised in particular flavours, contributing to the birth of great 'classics' of Roman grattachecca, such as 'lemoncocco', or the combination of orange-marjoram and sour cherry.
Simple but perfect for any occasion, ideal for the first evening/day you arrive in town. My favourite place when I come back from a trip and don't have time/want to cook at home.
Traditional dishes, professional but friendly staff; homely and comfortable environment; simple lunch and dinner but with quality ingredients; it is also a pizzeria, with thin Roman-style pizzas; very close to the flat in which I offer the guest room
48 lokalaca preporučuje
Restaurant Ai Spaghettari
58 Piazza di S. CosimatoSimple but perfect for any occasion, ideal for the first evening/day you arrive in town. My favourite place when I come back from a trip and don't have time/want to cook at home.
Traditional dishes, professional but friendly staff; homely and comfortable environment; simple lunch and dinner but with quality ingredients; it is also a pizzeria, with thin Roman-style pizzas; very close to the flat in which I offer the guest room
Le Guide ai Quartieri - Neighbourhood Guides
Hints for experiencing the neighbourhood where the room I rent in my flat is located (Trastevere) and for discovering curiosities also in neighbouring districts that are worth visiting to get a less touristy idea of the city.
working-class neighbourhood, a small town in the city. It is easily reached by metro. Wander around the old part: architecture from the 1920s, up and down stairs. Very quiet, residential, large courtyards with free entry. To better understand the spirit of the Romans. Best visited in the afternoon, from 5 p.m. onwards
105 lokalaca preporučuje
Garbatella
working-class neighbourhood, a small town in the city. It is easily reached by metro. Wander around the old part: architecture from the 1920s, up and down stairs. Very quiet, residential, large courtyards with free entry. To better understand the spirit of the Romans. Best visited in the afternoon, from 5 p.m. onwards
former working-class neighbourhood, now residential, beloved of film directors and actors. Enjoy an evening aperitif in the square with several pubs. During the day, not far from the square, take a stroll around the covered market, where you can enjoy good quality snacks: from Sergio's sandwiches (very famous) to pasta dishes to take away or eat on the benches. There is also a bar inside.
Near the market, don't miss a visit to the former slaughterhouse: a surreal space that houses a bar and small temporary craft stores
23 lokalaca preporučuje
Piazza Testaccio
Piazza Testaccioformer working-class neighbourhood, now residential, beloved of film directors and actors. Enjoy an evening aperitif in the square with several pubs. During the day, not far from the square, take a stroll around the covered market, where you can enjoy good quality snacks: from Sergio's sandwiches (very famous) to pasta dishes to take away or eat on the benches. There is also a bar inside.
Near the market, don't miss a visit to the former slaughterhouse: a surreal space that houses a bar and small temporary craft stores
Ostiense district: this is the alternative area to the touristy Trastevere. Young people under 40, artists, new generation intellectuals meet here. Many new bars and pubs. Drinks generally good, food generally designed more as an accompaniment to cocktails, with a few exceptions. In the neighbourhood, see the murals/graffiti (one by Bansky) along Via di Porto Fluviale and nearby.
39 lokalaca preporučuje
Ostiense
Ostiense district: this is the alternative area to the touristy Trastevere. Young people under 40, artists, new generation intellectuals meet here. Many new bars and pubs. Drinks generally good, food generally designed more as an accompaniment to cocktails, with a few exceptions. In the neighbourhood, see the murals/graffiti (one by Bansky) along Via di Porto Fluviale and nearby.
Trastevere, the district where my flat is located, is the touristy but still very Roman heart of the city. Foreigners and locals mix seamlessly. Impossible to describe the neighbourhood: you need to 'walk' it at different times of the day. Early in the morning, let's say before 8.30 a.m.: in the alleys there are only the sounds of people opening shops, moving things around, starting their work as artisans (there are still some authentic ones that are nice to 'discover' for yourself). The rest of the morning comes alive little by little until the culmination of lunchtime, which starts at 12pm and... doesn't end again until nighttime: the tourists have changed the rhythm of meal consumption, so if you want to eat tonnarelli cacio e pepe or artichokes alla giudea when it's the season, at 4pm you can find them in some trattoria/bistro in the neighbourhood. They may be 'for tourists' but never of bad quality. For Roman doc cuisine, on the other hand, the hours are canonical Mediterranean in 'proper restaurants': 12.30pm to 3pm and 7.30pm to 10.30pm. In Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, apart from a beautiful church with superb mosaics, things happen in the evenings at the weekend: musical performances, mimes, dance, fire-eaters and jugglers. A myriad of pubs offer excellent cocktails (among the best at Freni e Frizioni a street cocktail bar open everyday from sunset till late!https://www.freniefrizioni.com/) or simple beers or soft drinks at the San Callisto bar popular with under 25s and old card players.
Then there is the other Trastevere, quieter and more chic: Via dei Vascellari, Via dei Genovesi, Piazza Santa Cecilia (with a stupendous single-nave church) and more refined pubs with more unusual offerings (a Mexican pub/restaurant with excellent cocktails, for example. It is a less touristy area although now known by all.
And then Trastevere has to be 'walked' at night, when people slowly go home and the alleys fill with the smell of La Renella bakery in Via del Moro 15 (the focaccia, which in Rome is called 'white pizza', is also excellent)... and it's breakfast time: cappuccino or coffee with maritozzo - the most typical Roman breakfast pastry - or ciambella, which is the number two fried pastry of the greedy: fried and rolled in granulated sugar and has an average size much larger than American donuts. And then there are the bombe alla romana, filled with cream or chocolate, covered in sugar and strictly fried. Enjoy!
1330 lokalaca preporučuje
Trastevere
Trastevere, the district where my flat is located, is the touristy but still very Roman heart of the city. Foreigners and locals mix seamlessly. Impossible to describe the neighbourhood: you need to 'walk' it at different times of the day. Early in the morning, let's say before 8.30 a.m.: in the alleys there are only the sounds of people opening shops, moving things around, starting their work as artisans (there are still some authentic ones that are nice to 'discover' for yourself). The rest of the morning comes alive little by little until the culmination of lunchtime, which starts at 12pm and... doesn't end again until nighttime: the tourists have changed the rhythm of meal consumption, so if you want to eat tonnarelli cacio e pepe or artichokes alla giudea when it's the season, at 4pm you can find them in some trattoria/bistro in the neighbourhood. They may be 'for tourists' but never of bad quality. For Roman doc cuisine, on the other hand, the hours are canonical Mediterranean in 'proper restaurants': 12.30pm to 3pm and 7.30pm to 10.30pm. In Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, apart from a beautiful church with superb mosaics, things happen in the evenings at the weekend: musical performances, mimes, dance, fire-eaters and jugglers. A myriad of pubs offer excellent cocktails (among the best at Freni e Frizioni a street cocktail bar open everyday from sunset till late!https://www.freniefrizioni.com/) or simple beers or soft drinks at the San Callisto bar popular with under 25s and old card players.
Then there is the other Trastevere, quieter and more chic: Via dei Vascellari, Via dei Genovesi, Piazza Santa Cecilia (with a stupendous single-nave church) and more refined pubs with more unusual offerings (a Mexican pub/restaurant with excellent cocktails, for example. It is a less touristy area although now known by all.
And then Trastevere has to be 'walked' at night, when people slowly go home and the alleys fill with the smell of La Renella bakery in Via del Moro 15 (the focaccia, which in Rome is called 'white pizza', is also excellent)... and it's breakfast time: cappuccino or coffee with maritozzo - the most typical Roman breakfast pastry - or ciambella, which is the number two fried pastry of the greedy: fried and rolled in granulated sugar and has an average size much larger than American donuts. And then there are the bombe alla romana, filled with cream or chocolate, covered in sugar and strictly fried. Enjoy!
Visite turistiche - sightseeing
There are places even outside the city that deserve a visit, if you have time, because they are part of the history of the place and/or also tell a lot about the way of life of the locals.
the park of Villa Pamphili is gigantic with centuries-old trees. A paradise for joggers, but also outdoor yoga and tai chi.
The villa can be visited, checking the opening hours, which change with the seasons. Always visible are the gardens in front of the villa that are a beautiful "embroidery "
67 lokalaca preporučuje
Вила Памфили
183 Via Aurelia Anticathe park of Villa Pamphili is gigantic with centuries-old trees. A paradise for joggers, but also outdoor yoga and tai chi.
The villa can be visited, checking the opening hours, which change with the seasons. Always visible are the gardens in front of the villa that are a beautiful "embroidery "
Villa d'Este was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001. In summer it comes alive with evening openings and visits in the company of art historians. Throughout the year it is visited during the day. Nearby is also Villa Adriana, another place of immense beauty: a city that Hadrian created for the love of his beloved. The visit can take up to a whole day, getting lost among the well-kept remains of the ancient site, the pine trees, the gardens.
182 lokalaca preporučuje
Вила д'Есте
5 P.za TrentoVilla d'Este was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001. In summer it comes alive with evening openings and visits in the company of art historians. Throughout the year it is visited during the day. Nearby is also Villa Adriana, another place of immense beauty: a city that Hadrian created for the love of his beloved. The visit can take up to a whole day, getting lost among the well-kept remains of the ancient site, the pine trees, the gardens.
In the city, near the Circus Maximus, these baths, which still preserve the mosaics and intact structures of the pools, are not to be missed. In summer, theatre and music performances are held in the evenings.
397 lokalaca preporučuje
Каракала бање
Viale delle Terme di CaracallaIn the city, near the Circus Maximus, these baths, which still preserve the mosaics and intact structures of the pools, are not to be missed. In summer, theatre and music performances are held in the evenings.
Santa Severa is a place of the heart. It is 40 minutes by train from Trastevere station. There you will find a castle, very well maintained with excavations and archaeological ruins and - a wonderful idea - a hostel where you can spend the night....looking at the sea. Santa Severa, in fact, overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea (in the direction of Civitavecchia), which is crystal clear here. It is an inspiration in every season: a trip to cool off in summer, to walk in autumn, to contemplate the sea and the castle in winter. Beloved by Romans who are romantic and love nature still 'free'.
32 lokalaca preporučuje
Santa Severa
Santa Severa is a place of the heart. It is 40 minutes by train from Trastevere station. There you will find a castle, very well maintained with excavations and archaeological ruins and - a wonderful idea - a hostel where you can spend the night....looking at the sea. Santa Severa, in fact, overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea (in the direction of Civitavecchia), which is crystal clear here. It is an inspiration in every season: a trip to cool off in summer, to walk in autumn, to contemplate the sea and the castle in winter. Beloved by Romans who are romantic and love nature still 'free'.
Saveti o gradu
Kretanje u lokalu
walking is the best way to discover the city
from my neighbourhood in a maximum of 45 minutes you can see the main attractions.
In any case, the tram or bus no. 8 runs from here, taking you directly to the historic centre (Piazza Venezia, close to Fori imperiali e Colosseum); tram or bus no. 3 crosses the city (from Trastevere station to Villa Giulia where the National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art is located) the route is a real little journey between two extremes of the city
More: walk under the streets and bridges along the river or to cycle up to Castel Sant'Angelo, Isola Tiberina or simply strolling in the quiete!
Kako da uštedite
bus/tram/metro tickets and discount at museum
tickets for travelling on public transport are sold in bars, tobacconists and newspaper kiosks.
by presenting already used bus/tram/metro tickets (also carnets/subscriptions) you can get a discount on entrance to museums and art galleries
Rezervišite pre polaska
attractions to book before you go
1. Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel: book in advance online on the official multilingual site (only on the official site, please https://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/it.html)
2. Galleria Borghese: better book in advance (15 days before visiting) online on official web site (https://galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it/)
3. In general, to avoid any unpleasant hiccups (especially if you are in Rome for a short time), all attractions/visits/tours should be booked on the coop culture website, one of the most reliable and official.
Ne propustite priliku
Don't miss the Vatican Necropolis and St Peter's Tomb
In the Vatican it is the most fascinating and least known experience: you have to apply to the excavation office. See the site in English: http://www.scavi.va/content/scavi/en/ufficio-scavi.html
Šta poneti
wear comfortable shoes
Rome is a city to be visited on foot even if it is very large: I suggest comfortable shoes with an equally comfortable change of clothes. If it is summer: hat, water bottle, sun cream. Autumn: keway, mini umbrella, rain shoes. I recommend shoulder bags that are easy to control in crowded situations and on controllable public transport
Običaji i kultura
Roman sarcasm is not rudeness
Romans are very sarcastic and like to talk and joke even with strangers. It often happens when entering a shop, a bar, a restaurant to find a somewhat camaraderie-like welcome: do not mistake certain confidential ways of approaching people and their urge to make jokes as rudeness. It is instead a philosophy of life: among the 'people' in the street we are all equal, on the same level. Humans. Let's have fun and, above all, take life lightly.